Monday, May 19, 2008

Woodland Walks - Sunday - Day 14

It was lovely first thing this morning and Dave and I took off straight after breakfast through the woods to the rear of Paul's place, past the wishing well and down the track to the road. Here we turned right and passed the house as directed and down a track which disallowed cars. We strode on enjoying the peace of the morning and soon saw the lake through the trees on our right.

We came out on a sandy beach and enjoyed the full panorama of the still waters of the lake with fish leaping, the restaurant on a knoll above and to the right of us, and a small well-worn footbridge over what we in Scotland would call a burn running into the loch. It was a scene of particular and gentle beauty. Having drunk in the views, we sauntered round to the Quai Sud restaurant for a cuppa and a sandwich before setting off in the direction of the swimming pool. No sooner had we set out than the rain started so we redoubled our steps to return to our starting point. The rain became a torrent and looking back we decided to take shelter in a log cabin almost completed and ready for occupation. As we drew near we noticed that the cabin was not empty. Indeed there were three adults and two young German Shepherd dogs also standing in the doorway.

My uncertainty over the dogs was only matched by my desire to get out of the pouring rain as we were already quite wet. However we were assured by the owners that the dogs were well behaved, and we were glad to join them in a house which belonged to neither of us. The couple were Dutch and the ladies' mother was visiting them from Holland, where she assured us that the weather was excellent. The young bitch ( the dog I mean), was taking an inordinate interest in me, and the young lady owner commented on this. I had to explain that we were staying in a gite where there was a handsome black labrador who was a real "ladies' man". They found this quite amusing so I suppose that's another visitor Sidney will be having before long.

We finally made it home over fairly wet terrain and spent much of the rest of the day trying to dry off our meagre supply of clothes. In particular we needed our towels which we had been trying to dry for three days. We could have asked Paul for more, but didn't wish to impose upon him. At last in the evening the weather cleared, we dried things off and went for a stroll before bedtime coming back by the light of the full moon. Maybe that's why the young dog took me for a canine companion!

Chilling Out - Saturday - Day 13

Two days of rain and not much sun have left us all feeling a bit chilly and wishing for improvement. Strange how, just like home,the weather always gets better when it's time to start work again. The young guys returned from their night out in Angouleme and we all spent the day fairly close to La Giraudiere.

After lunch, Dave and I walked down to the village in the rain. We met Geoff who had returned from his few days away and promised to visit next week. We stocked up on wine and other necessities! and trundled back to curl up with an Alexander McColl Smith book - not that I'm pining for home, but just wanted to finish it and see if I could pick up a few tips for writing my blog.

Michelle and Donnie took a turn of cooking tonight. They prepared a good old fry-up which none of us had had since leaving the UK, and Michelle maybe hadn't experienced at all - well at least not with the old " boudin noir" (black pudding to the uninitiated). Strange reaction to this delicacy. You either seem to love it or hate it and the opinion round the table was just about split down the middle.

The young people were on the move again. Celine, the French teacher had offered to drive them to a reggae and blues evening near to Angouleme and off they went to enjoy a late night bonanza of music and entertainment.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

A Visit from M. Le Maire- Day 12

Ah Lovely! A lie-in followed by a leisurely breakfast. Now, no work today, so time to experiment with the next type of flour, the aim being to produce a batch of scones, in the hope of tempting M. Le Maire, who was to visit in the afternoon. The scones turned out quite well and prompted me to produce a second batch. Sidney who had now fully recovered from his mystery illness was champing at the bit for a little taste. If I ever wonder how a particular dish will be received, I only have to gauge Sidney's reaction. This time on a scale of 1-10 it must have been about 8 - hard to say though, as Sidney doesn't give out compliments lightly!

Soon after the scone-making episode and the coffee cups were set out for Le Maire, Paul arrived at the gite with a couple of friends. I remembered he had said a couple of his neighbours were looking in, and so coffee and scones were duly served. No sooner than they had left and things were washed up and re-set than the Mayor arrived and we repeated the ritual. Fortunately, the scones went down well (tres bon) and he appeared impressed with all that was taking place with the work.

M. Le Maire took his leave and everything was again washed up and tidied. Yes, you've guessed - another set if visitors arrived. This was Ian and Win who had actually been originally expected. No-one can say Paul isn't popular. It was agreed that we would meet again later and enjoy an evening out at Mamie Bulles restaurant, which turned out to be a very good choice, and we had a lovely evening. On the way home we dropped by Patrick's place - What a wonderful house and such a picturesque spot.

First French Lesson wih Celine - Day 11

This was the last of the current 3-day work cycle. It was also the day of the first French lesson with Celine. It was a lovely day and the work progressed well. Celine arrived just after 10 and despite the different stages of our various grasps of the French lamguage, she managed in her usual charming way, to make the hour fun and interesting for all. We followed the lesson with an excellent al fresco lunch at the picnic tables in the front courtyard.

By afternoon the preparation work on the gates had been completed and the undercoat applied. We worked against the clock as the storm clouds were gathering again. We had a brief visit from Jim and Wendy who had stayed with Paul at La Giraudiere when their own French house was being completed and who had come to regard it as a second home.

Come the evening our three musketeers were keen for an adventure and took off to Chalais. Unfortunately, Thursday night in Chalais is a pretty quiet affair and so their return was sooner than expected. Undaunted though they set out the following morning this time with the delights of Angouleme in their sights. Bonne Chance!

Annie and Jean Visit - Day 10

Loud knocking at the door of our gite where everyone assembles for breakfast made me awaken with a start, jump out of bed and rush downstairs. We had painted the front doors of the gites the previous day and the paint seemed to be sticking the door, preventing it from opening. I took the stairs two at a time to get Dave to come and open the door. By this time Dave had pulled on some clothes and was on his way downstairs when I took another look at the alarm clock only to find it was 6.30 and not 7.30 as I had originally thought. Sacre Bleu! I had been dreaming. Once the hearts stopped pounding we lay down again and tried to recover the vestiges of the night's sleep.

Later that morning, Annie and Jean came for coffee on their way to see their little great-grandson. I took the opportunity to do two things, practice my French with Annie, whom I knew would be very patient with me, and enquire of Annie as to whether I was using the correct flour for my crepes. I was pleased to learn that I was OK with the flour, and I was delighted that Annie was willing to share her secret ingredient to add to crepes, which grew nearby. She didn't swear me to secrecy but I'm keeping this one under my hat.

The afternoon work session was well under way when Patrick dropped by on his way back home on his bicycle from the village. I took the chance of showing Patrick my prize purchase from the vide grenier and asking his opinion - Patrick knows about these things. He gave my purchase his approval which pleased me immensely.

During Patrick's visit another car arrived in the road outside bearing an older couple with a dog. I tried in my best pidgin French to explain that M. Paul would be with them shortly. However, I managed to take from their reply that they hadn't come to see Paul, but to let their dog Nina visit Sidney! Well I never!. Sidney did his best to oblige with a short romp around, but he was a bit off colour and perhaps didn't provide the usual frantic courting his paramours have come to expect.

Later Sidney needed to visit the vet who tested him for various ailments and decided he had eaten something he shouldn't. He had two injections and was put on a water-only diet for the following day. He's such a good boy in every situation. From the vet's we went on to the supermarket, stocked up on supplies and retured to a lovely meal cooked by Ryan and Simon.

Good news today. Word of the work at La Giraudiere is spreading. The mayor is interested in looking at the work to date

The Calm after the Storm - Day 9

Tuesday was a beautiful day after the previous night's storm. Work projects continued without incident and plans were made for a visit to the supermarket in Barbezieux the following day. Poor Paul! We're eating him out of house and home.

During the project, we take turns of cooking in the evening. Lunch is usually a selection of salads with meats, pate, cheese and quiche. Depending on the weather, which has been a bit more unsettled than is usual at this time of year for this area, we may eat indoors or in the front or back courtyards, one being more shady than the other. One skill which is therefore very helpful, is that of being able to produce a meal. We sometimes cook in pairs, as it does help to have an assistant. Not many are used to cooking for larger numbers, and on occasion there can be up to 9 people to serve.

Younger members of the group again took off to the village at night, while Sidney kept us company in the gite.

Market Day in Chalais - Day 8

Market Day in Chalais takes over the whole of the town centre. We arrived quite late and so didn't quite manage to sample the delights of all of the vendors ' stalls. There had been a giant paella cooked al fresco but it was finished by the time we arrived. We sauntered around in the beautiful sunshine and managed to snap up a few purchases before the traders started to close up. The market closes at 12 sharp.

Laden with goodies of one kind or another, the market sells a wide range of produce both of the eating and decorative varieties, we made our way to a local cafe-bar where we had a sandwich and a drink, again soaking up the sunshine and pleasant ambience of the day. Soon Paul came to collect us and drove us back to La Giraudiere where we had a relaxing evening prior to the start of the 3-day work spell. Once again there was a dramatic lightning storm that night.

Saturday, May 17, 2008

Bardenac and the Football Tournament - Day 7

Sunday was to be an activity packed day. Celine arrived early to collect Michelle for a 10 km walk. Paul drove Dave and myself to Bardenac as there was a Brocante cum vide grenier (loft clearance, or car boot sale to us). We were to receive a lift in Celine's car back to Brossac later, where the football tournament was to take place, followed by a dinner dance. It seems my first impression of sleepy villages belied a hotbed of activity.

The Brocante was very good and at around 12 Michelle arrived to look round. Unfortunately we had missed our lift from Celine and ended up walking back to Brossac in the heat of the afternoon, a trek of around 10km along a busy roadway with unrelenting vehicles whizzing by. Michelle and I picked wild marguerites growing by the roadside and put them behind our ears. We stopped for a water break once we had turned left off the main road, and collapsed on the grassy verge to rest our aching feet. After a few minutes we trudged on, only to encounter a large viper in the middle of the road. It made us realise that it could have been in the grass just where we had been sitting a few minutes before.

On the last stretch approaching the village we stopped to take a few pictures of the lovely view over the fields and farm steadings and of the rear of the church, and to examine the pink oxalis growing on the verge.

We arrived in the village hot and thirsty and made straight for the football stadium. This time our team was made up of our host Paul, a couple of ex pat friends and our own young guys from La Giraudiere. They did well but didn't quite make it to the final round.

In the evening we attended the football dinner in the village hall, which gave us further insight into French cuisine, and then after another heat storm of some magnitude, we walked home and flopped into bed.

Meeting Patrick - Day 6

Saturday was a restful day. Dave and I went to the village in the morning, where we came upon a few market stalls set up in the main square. The main one of these sold lovely fresh fish including large plump trout fillets, olerons (known to us as oysters), fresh sardines and several other varieties of fish. Walking back we heard the cackling call of a corncrake, one of the many species of wild birds which can be heard in the area.

The afternoon was spent in general routine chores punctuated by the arrival of another of Paul's friends and neighbours, Patrick whom Paul invited to dinner. An evening of good food, cross-table quips and celtic songs was to follow. The heat of the day had typically built up into an "orage" or heat storm, of which we were to experience many during out stay. These were dramatic affairs of sky wrenching lightning, loud peels of thunder and torrential rains.

First Visit to Chalais - Day 5

This was our first non-working day and breakfast was a staggered affair during which Geoff arrived and joined us for a coffee. He was on his way to Chalais and offered myself, Dave and Michelle a lift in his car, which we accepted eagerly.

Chalais was bigger than I had expected and was busy with Friday morning shoppers. We made our way to a charming little Marche de Fermier which sold an attractive selection of local produce including cognac, honey, farm-reared chicken and even tagine crocks for making Morroccan lamb stews.

Before returning to Brossac, Geoff kindly drove us to the chateau, the central courtyard of which could be accessed by the only drawbridge in Eurpoe still in working order. We wondered at all that had happened there over the years and the tales the walls might tell if they could. There had been storm damage to part of the roof and so the inner sections were closed at the time of our visit, although there was a restaurant with a small outside terraced area open to visitors. The chateau was certainly in a commanding position on a hilltop overlooking the town and affording panoramic views over the rolling countryside beyond. Quaint traditional houses nestled safely in the streets on the approaches to the chateau.

We took a scenic route back to Brossac where Geoff invited us to visit his home for coffee and some of the delicious almond-filled pastries which we had bought in Chalais. We returned to La Giraudiere and spent a quiet afternoon, while the more energetic indulged in some football practice as a build up to the tournament on Sunday.

The evening was spent watching Brossac football team play against a neighbouring team from Barbezieux. Unfortunately we didn't win but we did enjoy an after match meal at a local restaurant and finally tumbled into bed at around 1.30am.

Birthday Celebrations - Day 4

Some of the group were a little late to surface this morning due to previous evening's revelries. Sighs of relief had been heard after midnight from those who had finally managed to negotiate the way home in the pitch dark. We town dwellers tend to forget that there are no street lights in the country. Work got under way quickly as the French teacher Celine was arriving for lunch. We had an addition to our team who helped with some stone cleaning of the building. I can now say I have cleaned a chateau with a toothbrush - or maybe it just felt that way!

We celebrated Michelle's birthday with the long awaited lemon meringue pie ( ever tried to set candles into meringue?) A cake would have certainly been a better option but I hadn't quite got the hang of the different types of flour over here - just one of the many small differences which are part of living in another country.

After the evening meal the younger members of the group set off for the lakeside restaurant where we were to meet them later, while Paul took Dave and I to meet his good friends and neighbours, Annie and Jean, who were most hospitable hosts. Annie was keen to show us pictures of the latest additions to her family, and I was fascinated to see some of her very fine and intricate crochet and lace work. We both tried hard to understand the other and with Paul's help we just about succeeded.

After our visit, we went off to meet the others in the restaurant. The evening was fine so we were able to enjoy one or two of the local drinks ( not least of which was a flaming cocktail called cucaracha), to South American salsa music. Sore throats tomorrow? We had a very pleasant evening and took off home in good spirits looking forward to a few non-work days and an enjoyable weekend.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

A Look Around Brossac - Day 3

Having re-set the alarm, we got up next morning and set the breakfast table. The morning was cool and calm, and a light -hearted air permeated the group. Work started and we continued in pairs on our various projects. Geoff arrived to return Dave's specs, which had been left in his car and then set off to collect the last member of the group, Ryan.

Peace prevailed until the cuckoo in the nearby woods developed hiccups and started to call in double time - a highly amusing phenomenon! I had always associated the cuckoo with scenes of rural bliss until today, when, after half an hour of its non-stop hooting, I could have cheerfully strangled the beast!

Soon everyone returned and we reckoned a coffee was in order, especially since Julien, Paul's co-worker, treated us all to the lightest pain au chocolat you have ever tasted. They were magnificent, Merci Julien.

After lunch and when the shops re-opened, Dave and I walked into the village with the new arrival, Ryan. This was our first trip to the village and we were impressed by the lovely exteriors of the houses on the approach, and the friendly greetings of the villagers. The shop-keepers were equally friendly and helpful, if a little bemused by my sad attempts at their beautiful language. Ah well, c'est la vie!

We were taken by the commanding position of the church and the monument to the war dead. So many young lives lost from such a small community - as with so many other small villages across Europe. We meandered down past the church in the languid heat of mid afternoon following the signs for the Gallo-Roman ruins, however the steep downward gradient of the raod led us to re-consider the wisdom of going further bearing in mind the upward ascent of the return journey.

Instead, we followed the signs for the village de vacances, hoping to visit the swimming lake, but decided to cut short our walk as we were bearing an important and secret possession, a frozen lemon meringue pie, which we needed to get back as soon as possible before it turned into a watery goo. Tomorrow was the birthday of one of the party and the pie was to serve, bedecked with candles, as a birthday cake.

Back at La Giraudiere, a trip to the lake was under way, however our aged bodies were suffering and we left this to the younger members of the group, along with Sidney ( now known as Sidney Poitiers). Coming from the land of the mountain and the flood where the lochs are deep and very cold, we were not surprised when the swimming party arrived back to declare the water freezing despite the very warn air temperature.

As with lunch the evening meal was enjoyed seated in the courtyard. The laughter rippled around the table, especially when one of the young men ( who shall remain nameless - but he knows who he is!) admitted his crush on Cilla Black - well he was only 6 at the time! In fact so much hearty badinage, Dave's word of the day, was experienced that the three young musketeers made off for Mamie Bulles, the local bar to continue the merriment. Sore heads tomorrow?

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Tatties and Mince a La Giraudiere! - Day 2

We woke around 6am next morning to the sounds of breakfast being laid, but as we were not due downstairs until 8am there was plenty of time. We eventually moved ourselves to join the others and reality dawned, we had forgotten to change the travel alarm to French time - Mon Dieu!

After breakfast Paul welcomed us as a group and outlined his plans for our work projects during our 6 week stay. We discussed ideas around potential school trips, practical maintenance tasks and a directory of information for future visitors. Dave and I set to work refurbishing the window shutters. Paul had an important trip to make to Bordeaux and arrived back in the early afternoon with Donnie. another addition to the group, which now totalled 5.

The day was sunny and sufficiently hot to blister the fresh paint on the shutters. As we worked we became aware of the sounds of the countryside, the cooing of collared doves, the unmistakable call of a cuckoo in the nearby woods and the lazy lowing of cattle at Annie's neighbouring farm. Nesting house martins flitted in and out of the barns, going about their own construction business.

Come evening we had a hearty meal of "tatties and mince" which needed translation for the uninitiated - but from the Scots dialect, not the French, and we settled down for the evening feeling suitably pleased with our first day's efforts. The red sunset assured us that tomorrow would be another warm day, and coming from the chillier east coast of Scotland, we looked forward to that.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Arrival at La Giraudiere - First Impressions

Our flight from Luton touched down in Bordeaux on a mild, grey day in early May, destination La Giraudiere in rural Poitou Charente. Our host, Paul had kindly arranged for one of his ex-pat friends to collect us at the airport and we were soon speeding along in the evening rush hour, travelling northwards through the Charentaise countryside, on an interesting and somewhat mysterious six-week adventure.

To begin with the countryside was flat, but pleasantly leafy and verdant, against which the pale cream stonework of the characteristic Charentaise houses, with their red pantiled roofs and coloured shutters, stood out. We turned off the motorway and passed through a number of sleepy villages, tidy and well maintained, but to all intents and purposes appearing deserted. Gradually the road began to undulate and soon we were driving along narrower roads lined with the remains of forests of old oak and pine trees.

Finally the car drew into the driveway of La Giraudiere, easily recognisable from the website where we had originally found out about the venture. Geoff, our driver, introduced us to Simon, the first of the party of six to arrive. Our host Paul had gone to Angouleme to collect another of the party, Michelle, who was travelling from the USA, He had however instructed his trusty black labrador Sidney, to give us a warm welcome and Sidney did not disappoint. He was to become a great favourite with the group.

Paul soon arrived and we enjoyed a pleasant evening in true French style over a meal and a glass of wine. Then it was off to bed after a long day of travelling and taking in the sights and sounds of Charente.